Postcards from Angola

The Oil King of Africa

When and Where: 03/2023 – Luanda

71^st Country Visited; 8^th African Country Visited

Interesting Facts:

- Angola is the birthplace of dreadlocks.

- Despite Angola being rich the natural resources of oil and diamonds, the average Angolan lives in poverty. The life expectancy of an Angolan is under 55 years.

Angola is unlike any other country I’ve visited in Africa. Angola has a socialist government, and the military has a tight control over the lives of the citizenry. Before arriving in Luanda, the capital, the ship passengers were warned sternly that safety should be our main concern. We were also warned that if we took photos in certain areas, we would be subject to arrest. Being adventuresome, I rarely book tours offered by the cruise line. But in Angola, I felt safe taking the ship’s excursion, The Changing Face of Luanda. This 3-hour tour was the most expensive tour I booked this entire cruise, costing $219. But I wanted to get out and see what I could see in Luanda. My first impression of the city was based on its magnificent modern skyline. When I saw the skyline, I wasn’t thinking third world country. Unlike the immigration process in other cruise destinations, Angolan military officials boarded our ship with guns and were seen walking about the cafeteria. After breakfast, I disembarked and boarded my assigned minivan. My van was in a procession of about a dozen vehicles flanked on each end by military and the police. Unlike all other ports I’ve visited with the exception of Havana and St. Petersburg, our movement was monitored at all times and we weren’t able to venture off on our own at all. At each stop, all passengers disembarked their assigned van. Until every last passenger was back on the buses, the caravan could not move. With all this being said, I didn’t feel the least bit unsafe.

As we drove out of the port area into downtown, I was even more amazed at the modern skyline in Luanda. There is a significant military presence throughout the city. Many times, I saw armed soldiers in the back of pickup trucks roaming around the city. Our first stop was the beautiful Iron Palace. This yellow-hued iron structure was designed by Gustav Eiffel, the architect of Paris’ Eiffel Tower. Built in the 1890’s, its now a cultural center and home to Angolan photography exhibitions. Our next stop on the tour was Our Lady of Remedies Catholic Church, which was built in 1628. This structure was outwardly beautiful with an intricate altar on the inside. Next, we made a stop at the Angolan National Museum of Anthropology. As we disembarked, we heard the sound of African drums being played close by. I felt as if I were back in time. The Museum housed a collection of folk masks and African art which reflects the long, complicated history of the Angolan people. After about a half hour, we all reboarded our buses and headed to our next destination. On the way, I was discreetly taking photos from the bus. We passed by settlements which were extremely poor. Similar to South Africa, there is a great wealth disparity in Angola.

The next destination was Fortress Sao Miguel (St. Michael). The fortress was built by the Portuguese in 1576 to protect the city. It also was a major outlet for slave traffic to Brazil. Until 1975 when Angola achieved its independence from Portugal, the fortress served as the headquarters of the Commander-in-Chief of the Portuguese Armed Forces in Angola. Today, it holds the Museum of the Armed Forces. The grand entrance had a drive-through communist star. On the back side of the walls near the star were two large murals. The mural on the left was militant featuring soldiers, tanks, missiles, fighter jets with the socialist national flag of Angola in the background. The mural on the right features workers and slaves bound in chains. From the start, this fortress seemed militaristic. As I walked the grounds, there were tanks, airplanes, canons, statues of ancient conquerors, and a indoor display of weaponry. The best part of the fort was the view offered of downtown Luanda, which was great for photographs. Our final stop was the Agostinho Neto Mausoleum, a ground level tomb with an obelisk-like marker which resembles a spaceship. The marker is taller than the Statue of Liberty and was built by a North Korean company. Agostinho Neto helped Angola achieve its independence from Portugal and was the nation’s first president from 1975-1979. During Neto’s rule, Angola’s two closest allies were North Korea and Cuba. We were guided through into the indoor mausoleum where we saw the casket of Neto behind glass and surrounded by flowers. We were firmly warned by a soldier not to take pictures. Before heading back to the ship, we were driven past the National Assembly of Angola building, which is basically Angola’s unicameral parliament building. The distinguished brown and tan building stands out overlooking downtown Luanda. It’s the nicest government building I’ve seen in my travels through Africa. Again, we were warned that photographing the building is considered a crime, so we couldn’t stop. However, the tour guide suggested we take pictures as he drove slowly past the gates. Back to the ship, I reboarded and had an early afternoon lunch. Holland America worked closely with vendors to set up a small shopping area right off the pier. I did not venture back off the ship. Overall, I thought the cityscape was beautiful, however Angola is a place I won’t likely ever revisit.