Postcards from the Past: Nicaragua

The Land of Lakes and Volcanoes

When and Where:           09/2015 – Granada, Lake Nicaragua, Masaya Volcano

47th Country Visited; 17th North American Country Visited

Interesting Facts:

·        Nicaragua is the largest Central American country.  Lake Nicaragua is the largest lake in Central America. 

·        Nicaragua doesn’t use street names or numbers. 

 Back in 2015 when Joe and I visited Costa Rica, one of the side trips offered from our hotel was a (long) day trip to Granada Nicaragua.  Not knowing what to expect, we packed our backpacks and left before sunrise on our adventure.  Upon arrival at the border, we had to exit the van and physically walk across the border, getting our passports stamped along the way.  Once across, we loaded back into the van and made our way to Granada.  My first impression was positive as the highway was perfect compared to the roads on Costa Rican side.  Looking freshly paved, the tour guide told us that the government of Nicaragua keeps their roads in top condition in the event the military has to be deployed to quell a civilian uprising.  Similar to Venezuela and Cuba, Nicaragua is a police state: one in which the government institutions exercise an extreme level of control over civil societies and liberties. 

 When we arrived in Granada I was once again surprised.  It is a beautifully preserved colonial city with pastel buildings, homes and churches.  Granada is one of Nicaragua’s most important cities both economically and politically.  At the time it was discovered by the Spanish in 1524, there was a thriving indigenous population.  The city has an old-world charm characterized by cobblestone streets and Spanish influenced architecture.  As I later discovered, Granada is home to many ex-pats from the US, Canada, Spain, Germany, Italy, Ireland and other European countries.  Our tour guide led us through the streets and into the mustard colored, Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral.  The neoclassical Cathedral was built around 1525 and despite being burned down twice, kept its Spanish charm.  Aside from the cosmopolitan Panama City and the charming Antigua Guatemala, it is my favorite city in Central America. 

 After a delicious lunch of chicken, rice and beans, Joe and I headed out by horse and buggy to Lake Nicaragua.  The ride was included in our tour, but not everyone on our tour from Costa Rica opted for the ride.  The antique looking buggy was ornately decorated with fringe and a colorful canopy.  The driver did not speak English and we speak little Spanish.  We felt foolish parading around in the horse and buggy like old gringos.  Once we arrived at the lake, we got out of the buggy, walked around and took a few pictures of serene Lake Nicaragua.  It seemed rather quiet at first, then we saw some sketchy people milling about.  A few minutes later, the horse and buggy driver began to scream.  We weren’t sure what he wanted, but he definitely wanted our attention.  To this day we are not sure exactly what happened, but I think we were in some sort of danger.  Once back in the horse and buggy, the guide began whipping the horses to get them to trot faster.  He seemed really upset, but again, we didn’t get a clear answer as to what was going on.

 We reconnected with those on our tour and proceeded to Masaya Volcano, a 45-minute drive north from Granada.  The calderas and craters of Masaya cover a large area in what is a national park.  The tour driver walked us up to the rim of the main crater, which looked like the surface of the Moon.  The smell of sulfur in the air was overwhelming and the heat being emitted was overpowering.  Masaya is one of the world’s most active volcanoes.  Although I was close to lava flows near Kilauea on the Big Island in Hawaii, I had never been that close to lava within a volcano.  The experience was fascinating.

 Overall, I loved my experience in Granada.  It’s an off-the-beaten-path destination, but a jewel of a city.  And I was pleasantly surprised by Nicaragua as a whole, despite the political climate.

Beautiful Granada Nicaragua 

Granada

The infamous horse and buggy ride

Masaya Volcano

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